Keeping people and animals safe from your dog.

Even a small dog can do a lot of harm. Until you can consult an expert:

Acknowledge your dog's aggression.
Don't take chances

Often this goes a long way in helping you feel secure.

Avoid what sets your dog off

Crates/kennels

Leashes

Muzzles and head collars

Freedom

Fences

Teaching your dog deferential behavior

Dangers with crates/leashes

Avoid what sets your dog off!

If your dog growls when you pet him on top of his head, don't pet him on top of his head!! If your dog growls at others, keep him away from others!!

Desensitization may be needed for many aggressive problems, but you need to know exactly how to do this for your particular dog. Until then, there is no point is setting your dog off. That goes for any of your dog’s aggression problems. The more your dog lunges at your neighbor's dog, the more you strengthen and encourage that response, and the more difficult it will be to undo that reaction.

Wait until you consult an expert. They will let you know how to proceed. Until then, back off.

(Top of page)

Crates/kennels

Invest in a crate. If you don’t normally use one and feel guilty, reassure yourself that a crate is actually similar to a den, and dogs can eventually feel safe in there. Decorate it with blankets or whatever else will make you feel better about it. It is the ideal thing when you need a break from your dog or need to protect guests. However, it should not be used for more than a few hours at a time. Trainers who rely on excessive crating to "cure" aggression, could be relying on a psychological condition similar to"learned helplessness" or depression.

A crate ought to be a safe den for the dog. Ask guests to ignore the dog when the dog is in there. Otherwise, move your dog to room where children can’t open it. Put a sign on the door for adults. Don’t rely on a baby gate. Dogs have been known to jump them, or chew through them. The benefit of a crate is that you can have your dog in the same room with you. Note: excessive crating can cause more behavioral problems [1].

(top of page)

Leashes

If your dog is likely to bite you or anyone else who might have to deal with it at anytime, keep a leash on it, even in the house. See head collars in combination with leashes below. Its possible to purchase lightweight cloth leashes, and snip the handle so that it doesn’t catch on anything while your dog is allowed to roam free within your house. This will allow you grab the leash instead of its collar or its body if you need to pull your dog away from anything. It will allow you to avoid getting to close to those teeth. Note: Tethering of animals may expose them to increased stress and danger [2]

(top of page)

Muzzles, head collars and harnesses

If your dog is likely to bite, you should consider investing in a muzzle now. Don’t assume that your dog will behave appropriately with a muzzle, however. A muzzle will do nothing to prevent aggressive behavior. A muzzle will only prevent a bite.

A Gentle Leader Head Collar® comes highly recommended by the aggression experts.[3] This is not a muzzle. Your dog can still breathe, drink, eat, even bite if not corrected. But it makes control easy, and it is easy to prevent a bite simply by pulling on the lead.

Talk to your vet to find out which is best for your problem, and how and when you should use it. Your dog may not like it at first the same way puppies resist collars, but dogs are incredibly adaptable and will get used to it. The Gentle Leader Head Collar® is far more humane than choke collars, pinch collars, or yanking the dog around.

Any way you look at it, muzzles or head collars are far better than a bite, which may result in having to put your dog down.

Harnesses will not prevent biting and if the dog is aggressive it could be dangerous reaching around the neck to fit the harness. However, it is good for dogs who pull or lunge and the no-pull harnesses offer more of a humane control for dogs with short snouts,where head halters won't work. The two main no-pull harnesses are the Lupi and the Sporn or No-Pull Harness.

(Top of page)

Freedom

Freedom is tricky. As humans we believe that our dogs should be free to roam as they please. We avoid using crates, leashes, etc. But ask yourself, are you avoiding the use of tools like those mentioned above because of guilt or laziness? If so, reconsider what kind of threat your dog poses to others. You will feel much worse if your decisions result in your dog causing enough harm to have it put down. Remember, if your dog is behaving aggressively, whatever is provoking the aggression is also stressful to your dog.

Sometimes dog-aggressive dogs benefit from having more exercise if they are the kind of breed that needs a lot and they are not getting enough. However, stay away from off-leash parks. A dog aggressive dog does not need to make friends. If you want your dog to get running exercise, consider getting it a long leash, and taking it to an area where you will not meet other dogs, or walk your dog with a head collar and leash.

Similarly a dog who is aggressive towards people, should not be free to growl or snap at people, even strangers. Don't take any chances. Its far better to be cautious then to need to put your dog down because you thought it "might be okay".

Invest in muzzles or head collars.
Under no circumstances shoudl you dog ever be given the oppourtunity to escape. If the door is going to be opened, always put your dog on a leash secured to something; put him in a crate or another room.
Ensure strangers coming to the house will not have to confront your dog however accidentally.
Make sure your yard/garden fences and gates are well secured. If your dog escapes anyway, you will be held liable.
Examine any free space your dog is allowed to run in, and make sure there is no danger of anyone or anything accidentally coming into this space. Don't assume that is you are there you can ask people not to come in. Sometimes they will not listen or believe your dog is a threat. If you are at all unsure, use a long leash, and a muzzle.
Check your leashes, collars, etc. will not break.
Never ever leave an infant or young child alone with any dog.
Always keep your dog in another area of your home when there are other people who may potentially get bitten.
Use a locking mechanism or hook on the doors of rooms and crates, where people cannot accidentally invade your dogs space.
Children have been known to open the doors of dog crates even when asked not to, so it is best to keep your dog in an area where children are not tempted.
Children may gain unauthorized access to a fenced area where your dog is kept. Never leave your dog outside without supervision.

(Top of page)

Fences

Fences, doors and windows are partticular problems for defensive dogs, since not only do these barriers define a dog's territorial boundary, with the potential invader just being directly on the other side with no "buffer" space, but it becomes critically important for a dog to defend the boundary particularly when the dog feels he may not be able to escape, if the boundary is breeched. [4] In some cases dog's who cannot see through fences (doors and windows, too) will be less reactive than dogs who can.

Supervise your dog when he is outside, never leave him out alone.
Tying a dog up outside can make aggression worse. Some of the most deadly and severe attacks have occured by chained dogs, or dogs who have escaped restrainsts such as fences, pens, or chains, etc.. [4]
Make sure that children cannot get into where your dog is contained. Padlock fences.
Make sure that there is no conceivable way your dog can get out, either by climbing, jumping, digging, etc. If your dog is destructive, be realistic about whether it can get through the fence
Protect your dog from strangers or children teasing it
If your dog has displayed aggression towards other animals, or people, a baby gate may not be a secure or safe way to keep your dog away from children. However baby gates can be helpful to manage space, and reduce tensions, or give time outs. However, if the dog has a fear of stranger or children its possible the dog will react aggressively towards an arm or face reaching in, or someone pressing up against the gate. Even toddlers may climb the gates or even learn how to open them. Exercise great caution when using them to keep a dog separated for his aggression towards others on the other side of the gate.

[1 ] Dangers associated with crating

"Single-housing for prolonged periods is likely to be deleterious to the dog and is associated with an increased incidence of behavioral abnormalities (Hetts et al.1992). Single-housing may sometimes be necessary for reasons of health or aggression, but the duration should always be kept to a minimum." Robert Hubrecht, Universities Federation for Animal Welfare - From Comfortable Quarters for Laboratory Dogs

"It has been known for a long time that inadequate housing can lead to behavioral problems in dogs" (Fuller 1967, Solarz 1970).
"Dogs sometimes have to be housed singly for experimental or quarantine reasons,
in which case greater thought should be given to providing extra human contact time and an interesting environment." Robert Hubrecht, Universities Federation for Animal Welfare - From Dogs and Dog Housing
"...Forced immobilization causes marked atrophic changes of the musculo-skeletal system which are accompanied by a negative calcium balance" W.M. Newton An evolution of the effects of various degrees of long term confinement on adult beagle dogs. Laboratory Animal Science, Vol. 22, No. 6 Pp. 860-864 - From Animal Advocates of BC - Research - Physical Effects
Independent research on the physical effects of isolation, chaining and substandard living conditions
Trainers that rely on excessive isolation are usually relying on a psychological condition known as learned helplessness.

(Top of page)

[2] Dangers associated with tethering or tying dogs up

"Virtually every dog who that spends most of the day on the end of a chain will show temperament problems. The most common problem resulting from chaining is hyperactivity... Fear biting and aggression are other common behaviors of chained dogs."
Jean V. Johnson, Executive Director, Washington Humane Society. Chaining: Cruel, Unnecessary, and Too Often Overlooked. WHS/SPCA news. 1991, Issue 2. - From Animal Advocates of BC - Research - Behavioral/Psychological
Independent research on the Behavioral/Psychological effects of isolation, chaining and substandard living conditions
"...Forced immobilization causes marked atrophic changes of the musculo-skeletal system which are accompanied by a negative calcium balance"

W.M. Newton An evolution of the effects of various degrees of long term confinement on adult beagle dogs. Laboratory Animal Science, Vol. 22, No. 6 Pp. 860-864 - From Animal Advocates of BC - Research - Physical Effects
Independent research on the physical effects of isolation, chaining and substandard living conditions

"Under conditions of confinement in which a dog's freedom of movement is constrained, it may feel trapped, vulnerable, agitated, and thereby become progressively more and more vigilant and aggressive towards the potential threat of intruding strangers and vagrant dogs." [4]
Trainers that rely on excessive isolation are usually relying on a condition similar to a psychological condition known as learned helplessness or depression.

References

[3] Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, Karen L. Overall, M.A., V.M.D., Ph.D. Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Behavior, Department of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia. Pennsylvania, Mosby, Inc. 1997

[4] Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Volume Two, Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems, Steven R. Lindsay, Iowa State University Press, 2001

K9aggression.com is committed to making a positive difference in the lives of aggressive dogs, their owners and those around them. By providing education, inspiration and support through online communication we hope to promote responsibility, action, and understanding.